Monday 1 September 2008
Update
I'm having to return to the UK over a month early due to bad health. Despite travel insurance, the care I need is proving expensive to me personally here in New York. Hopefully I will return to enjoy the remainder of my time off work just as soon as I'm better.
Wednesday 20 August 2008
Tuesday 19 August 2008
The people I befriended on yesterday's tour laughed at my cape. But then,they laughed yesterday at how wet I was. I can't win! But little did they know I'd have the last laugh this morning... muhahah!
Ahem.
Today's tour was along the south coast to the moai quarry, Ranu Raraku. This is the area that we recognise from postcards, that has the highest concentration of moai on the island. Again, I'd have some great snaps if it wasn't for the bloody rain!
The quarry is fascinating but puzzling. Many moai were left in varying degrees of completion, some on the island were abandoned while being transported, some had arrived at their ahu but were never put upright. It's as though the Rapa Nui people suddenly downed tools. But why?
We visited the ancient magnetic stone situated on the north shore, then the beach, Anakena, then headed back just before sundown. No shower required due to the cape despite the lashing rain. Just a quick wash of the feet before dinner and bed.
Another fantastic day but what shitty weather!
Ahem.
Today's tour was along the south coast to the moai quarry, Ranu Raraku. This is the area that we recognise from postcards, that has the highest concentration of moai on the island. Again, I'd have some great snaps if it wasn't for the bloody rain!
The quarry is fascinating but puzzling. Many moai were left in varying degrees of completion, some on the island were abandoned while being transported, some had arrived at their ahu but were never put upright. It's as though the Rapa Nui people suddenly downed tools. But why?
We visited the ancient magnetic stone situated on the north shore, then the beach, Anakena, then headed back just before sundown. No shower required due to the cape despite the lashing rain. Just a quick wash of the feet before dinner and bed.
Another fantastic day but what shitty weather!
Monday 18 August 2008
9am and things are basically going according to plan. There are three tours of the island available: two half-day tours and a full-day tour. Gonzalo warned me yesterday that the full-day tour needs to be booked a day in advance but hopefully I can squeeze in two half-dayers today and the full-day tomorrow.
"No. What? Wait, is the morning tour full or the afternoon one? Oh, in that case I'll book the afternoon tour for today then please. What? Oh, really? I'll go for the morning one instead then please. Is that OK? Great."
Nicole from my hostel who I met over breakfast and bumped into in the booking office found this funny. They just couldn't make up their bloody minds! But it's all booked now: morning for today, full day tomorrow then another morning tour on Wednesday. That leaves me with two afternoons free for... not sure yet.
Richard and his mum were on this morning's tour bus. So were most of the tourists on the island, it seemed. It was obviously the right tour to book. I'm happy. After all, it could have been just Red and me. Talking of Red, where is she?
It was raining. Hard. The cape I bought back home especially for Easter Island was laying forgotten in my backpack in my dorm. I needed it. I was about to get soaked...
First stop was Ahu Akivi, a platform with seven large moai. Alexandra, our guide, told us in Spanish and English the legend of these moai. Legends may not necessarily be true but what is true is that these moai had been toppled and restored in the 20th century. In fact, at one point, none of the 400 moai on the island were standing. What toppled the moai isn't completely known: warfare of earthquake. How the moai were transported up to a dozen kilometers from the quarry where they were carved to their locations also isn't completely known. The Rapa Nui people would tell you they walked.
The rain ruined my photos. Rainy scenes are one thing but rain on the lens is another. I'm not satisfied.
We visited the lava cave and quarry where the topknots (the moai's headdresses) were taken then headed back, all of us were completely soaked and cold.
I showered and changed just in time for the sun to come out. What awful timing. I thought I may as well hire a car and revisit the tour sites on my own to get some better pictures and make the best of the afternoon, so I did!
The Grand Vitara is the first left-hand-drive, manual car I've driven. All my life I thought it'd be awkward to change gear with my right hand but it's not. Not really. A few times I reached down with my left hand and hit the door but hey.
I got some awesome shots and loved every second. I feel for those who didn't bring their driving licence to afford freedom on this island.
I spent sunset on the east of the island then headed back to town in the dark.
I met with Richard and a few others for a lovely (but expensive) steak dinner with wine before heading back to my hostel for some rest before the big tour tomorrow.
What a day! What a place!
"No. What? Wait, is the morning tour full or the afternoon one? Oh, in that case I'll book the afternoon tour for today then please. What? Oh, really? I'll go for the morning one instead then please. Is that OK? Great."
Nicole from my hostel who I met over breakfast and bumped into in the booking office found this funny. They just couldn't make up their bloody minds! But it's all booked now: morning for today, full day tomorrow then another morning tour on Wednesday. That leaves me with two afternoons free for... not sure yet.
Richard and his mum were on this morning's tour bus. So were most of the tourists on the island, it seemed. It was obviously the right tour to book. I'm happy. After all, it could have been just Red and me. Talking of Red, where is she?
It was raining. Hard. The cape I bought back home especially for Easter Island was laying forgotten in my backpack in my dorm. I needed it. I was about to get soaked...
First stop was Ahu Akivi, a platform with seven large moai. Alexandra, our guide, told us in Spanish and English the legend of these moai. Legends may not necessarily be true but what is true is that these moai had been toppled and restored in the 20th century. In fact, at one point, none of the 400 moai on the island were standing. What toppled the moai isn't completely known: warfare of earthquake. How the moai were transported up to a dozen kilometers from the quarry where they were carved to their locations also isn't completely known. The Rapa Nui people would tell you they walked.
The rain ruined my photos. Rainy scenes are one thing but rain on the lens is another. I'm not satisfied.
We visited the lava cave and quarry where the topknots (the moai's headdresses) were taken then headed back, all of us were completely soaked and cold.
I showered and changed just in time for the sun to come out. What awful timing. I thought I may as well hire a car and revisit the tour sites on my own to get some better pictures and make the best of the afternoon, so I did!
The Grand Vitara is the first left-hand-drive, manual car I've driven. All my life I thought it'd be awkward to change gear with my right hand but it's not. Not really. A few times I reached down with my left hand and hit the door but hey.
I got some awesome shots and loved every second. I feel for those who didn't bring their driving licence to afford freedom on this island.
I spent sunset on the east of the island then headed back to town in the dark.
I met with Richard and a few others for a lovely (but expensive) steak dinner with wine before heading back to my hostel for some rest before the big tour tomorrow.
What a day! What a place!
Sunday 17 August 2008
Santiago to Easter Island
There was a lot of excitement on the plane with people passing cameras to strangers for them to take photos of Easter Island on the approach. The first English words of the South American next to me were, "isn't she beautiful," and she was!
The runway was built by NASA, apparently, in case a space shuttle ever needs to land in the middle of the Pacific. I also heard that this runway is the longest in the world -- is that true?
I was greeted by a chilly breeze and strong sun. If every day is like this, I'll need the sunglasses I lost back in Kings Canyon. I have a special feeling about this place. A magical one. From the outset, this would be the highlight of my trip. No other place really matters.
I disembarked with Richard, a 40-year-old wine connoisseur from London who'd sold up to make his way around the world. He was here with his mum. We'd stood at the back of the plane and chatted for hours about sports, travel, politics and business. In the arrivals hall, Richard and I swapped numbers before I was greeted by Gonzalo from Kona Tau, my hostel. Gonzalo presented me with a necklace of flowers which added to the feeling of being on a Polynesian island! Although nice, they meant I couldn't wear my backpack so I pulled it along in a clumsy manner.
In the minibus back to the hostel were Gonzalo, me and Redlipsticklady, or Red for short. I never asked Red's name but didn't care either. I tried to avoid her. She was a loud New Yorker, exaggerated and over the top. She asked of Gonzalo, "if there's one thing, Gonzalo, one thing on this island that you should see, what would it be, Gonzalo, what is that one thing, the one thing you must see before you die, you understand me Gonzalo, if I had an hour left on this planet, what would be the one thing, the one thing Gonzalo, the big one, tell me Gonzalo, what is it?"
Indeed. I couldn't stand that. Fortunately, Red and I were given separate dorms and I'd see precious little of her for the remainder of my trip.
Gonzalo gave us a quick tour of the town before showing us to our rooms. I had a 4-bed dorm to myself.
I have three full days on the island sandwiched between travelling days. I need to get to Tourist Information first thing in the morning to get myself booked onto some tours. There'll be no slacking off like there was in Santiago. My batteries are charged. I'm ready to go and this is Easter Island!
This evening was spent exploring on foot. I walked through the town and photographed a few moai (statues), one on an ahu (platform). I watched the sun setting over the horizon then ate.
The ATM (seemingly there's only one) doesn't accept VISA but I expected there'd be a cash problem so I withdrew 100,000 pesos (100 pounds) before leaving Santiago to tide me over. My accommodation, however, has cut into this by 45,000 pesos. The main street is mostly geared towards tourism: souvenir shops, car/bike rental, tour operators, LAN Chile, restaurants. Eating is expensive.
I slept early in readiness for the early start tomorrow. Breakfast starts at 8am so I should have enough time to eat and get to the tour operator by 9am.
The runway was built by NASA, apparently, in case a space shuttle ever needs to land in the middle of the Pacific. I also heard that this runway is the longest in the world -- is that true?
I was greeted by a chilly breeze and strong sun. If every day is like this, I'll need the sunglasses I lost back in Kings Canyon. I have a special feeling about this place. A magical one. From the outset, this would be the highlight of my trip. No other place really matters.
I disembarked with Richard, a 40-year-old wine connoisseur from London who'd sold up to make his way around the world. He was here with his mum. We'd stood at the back of the plane and chatted for hours about sports, travel, politics and business. In the arrivals hall, Richard and I swapped numbers before I was greeted by Gonzalo from Kona Tau, my hostel. Gonzalo presented me with a necklace of flowers which added to the feeling of being on a Polynesian island! Although nice, they meant I couldn't wear my backpack so I pulled it along in a clumsy manner.
In the minibus back to the hostel were Gonzalo, me and Redlipsticklady, or Red for short. I never asked Red's name but didn't care either. I tried to avoid her. She was a loud New Yorker, exaggerated and over the top. She asked of Gonzalo, "if there's one thing, Gonzalo, one thing on this island that you should see, what would it be, Gonzalo, what is that one thing, the one thing you must see before you die, you understand me Gonzalo, if I had an hour left on this planet, what would be the one thing, the one thing Gonzalo, the big one, tell me Gonzalo, what is it?"
Indeed. I couldn't stand that. Fortunately, Red and I were given separate dorms and I'd see precious little of her for the remainder of my trip.
Gonzalo gave us a quick tour of the town before showing us to our rooms. I had a 4-bed dorm to myself.
I have three full days on the island sandwiched between travelling days. I need to get to Tourist Information first thing in the morning to get myself booked onto some tours. There'll be no slacking off like there was in Santiago. My batteries are charged. I'm ready to go and this is Easter Island!
This evening was spent exploring on foot. I walked through the town and photographed a few moai (statues), one on an ahu (platform). I watched the sun setting over the horizon then ate.
The ATM (seemingly there's only one) doesn't accept VISA but I expected there'd be a cash problem so I withdrew 100,000 pesos (100 pounds) before leaving Santiago to tide me over. My accommodation, however, has cut into this by 45,000 pesos. The main street is mostly geared towards tourism: souvenir shops, car/bike rental, tour operators, LAN Chile, restaurants. Eating is expensive.
I slept early in readiness for the early start tomorrow. Breakfast starts at 8am so I should have enough time to eat and get to the tour operator by 9am.
Saturday 16 August 2008
Explorer bus
Explorer bus. Not open top. Commentary very dry.
You might sense from my short posts that I´m not getting much out of Santiago. I´ve met some lovely people, though, who I want to call my friends. If any of them are reading this, my lack of enthusiasm is no reflection on them. It´s me. I´m just drained and in need of a boost. The jetlag doesn´t help and I have no time here to adjust.
Here´s an extract from a brief email I sent to my mum. I didn´t put much thought into the email (sorry mum) and it appears here unedited.
[snip]
edit: on reflection, what I said in that email isn´t fair so I´ve removed it from this blog. I don´t know Santiago. I haven´t been here any time at all.
You might sense from my short posts that I´m not getting much out of Santiago. I´ve met some lovely people, though, who I want to call my friends. If any of them are reading this, my lack of enthusiasm is no reflection on them. It´s me. I´m just drained and in need of a boost. The jetlag doesn´t help and I have no time here to adjust.
Here´s an extract from a brief email I sent to my mum. I didn´t put much thought into the email (sorry mum) and it appears here unedited.
[snip]
edit: on reflection, what I said in that email isn´t fair so I´ve removed it from this blog. I don´t know Santiago. I haven´t been here any time at all.
Friday 15 August 2008
Sleep
Alex and Evin are leaving today for somewhere nice. It rained, heavily, all day. All bloody day. So I slept, only to emerge for dinner at a nice pub called Dublin just around the corner from the hostel. What a dinner! All that lovely meat. And what a late night, though my body tells me it´s early.
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